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Somehow, as the wave jacked over the inside bar, he slipped down the face early enough to make a turn, and then drew a breathtaking line and ran for forty yards under a ledging lip, his arms outstretched against a backlighted wall, before he finally straightened off, escaping the lips explosion by sailing far out onto the flat water in front of the wave

Retrieved 8 August 2009

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Source: The Hollywood Reporter Created by Ian Fleming First Film Dr